Why Look Past the Cotton Navy Blazer?
For decades the navy cotton blazer has been the easy answer to “What do I throw over a polo when it’s hot?” Yet the ubiquity of the men’s summer blazer is precisely the problem: arrive at a terrace lunch and you risk matching half the men on the reservation list. Chris Kerr clients come for garments that speak quietly of craft and individuality, so this season we’re exploring fabrics that breathe, travel well and stand out—without ever shouting.
The Three Pillars of a Great Summer Jacket
Before we dive into cloths, remember the three pillars of a great summer jacket: air‑flow, texture, and attitude.
- Air‑flow comes from open weaves or fibres that are breathable.
- Texture separates a sports jacket from an orphaned suit coat; slubs, puckers or plains with visible weave depth indciate informality.
- Attitude is the styling: single–breasted, soft or structured shoulder, patch pockets or jetted with flaps, bespoke lining. We cut every Chris Kerr summer jacket with these details in mind, then finish with real horn buttons and hand‑pick‑stitching so the casual never feels careless.
1. Irish & Italian Linen: Rumple, Don’t Crease
Linen remains the king of men’s summer blazer tailoring, but not all linen is equal. We recommend Irish or high‑twist Italian varieties woven with a loose hopsack construction. A quality linen lets the coat drape, while the open weave lets light show through when you hold it up—proof of ventilation. Cream, tobacco and olive make superb backdrops for boldly patterned shirts. Go for patch pockets, swelled seams and a two‑roll‑three button stance.
Styling cue: Pair a tobacco‑brown linen jacket with off‑white fresco trousers, a knitted cream polo and chocolate tassel loafers. You’re Aperol‑ready but never overdressed.
2. Seersucker: The Cool Pucker
Originating from the Persian phrase shir‑o‑shakar (“milk and sugar”), seersucker’s alternating tension in the loom creates ridges that sit off the skin, encouraging constant air circulation. Modern mills have re‑imagined the classic blue‑and‑white stripe in sage, sand and even monochrome charcoal, making it boardroom‑capable on sweltering days. Because the cloth already owns the conversation, we keep details sleek: notch lapels, one‑eighth top‑stitch, jetted hip pockets.
Chris Kerr tip: Commission matching seersucker trousers for a louche travel suit; wear together at the airport, split the pieces once you’ve arrived.
3. Madras & Lightweight Checks: Holiday Colour, London Cut
Madras—bleeding vegetable‑dye cotton first exported from Chennai—adds a shot of sprezzatura to any summer wardrobe. Unlike winter tweeds, its open plain weave keeps weight below 9 oz. We temper the surf‑shack connotations by cutting it slim with a soft shoulder, and we recommend half‑lining only the fronts to preserve shape. This Olive Madras Fabric from Fox Brothers & Co makes a great men’s summer blazer.
Not ready for full madras? Explore chambray prince‑of‑wales or pastel houndstooth for subtler interest.
4. High‑Twist Wool (AKA Fresco): The Jet‑Setter’s Armour
If you want crease resistance without linen’s rumple, look to high‑twist tropical wool. By twisting multiple yarns together before weaving, mills create a springy cloth with an almost corrugated hand — light bends bounce straight back. These 9–11 oz jackets shrug off airplane seats and August humidity.
5. Silk‑Linen‑Wool Blends: The Best of Three Worlds
Blending fibres lets mills fine‑tune performance: silk adds sheen and tensile strength, linen supplies breeziness, and wool provides memory. A 50/30/20 wool‑silk‑linen at around 11 oz drapes like fresco but flashes subtle lustre in sunlight—ideal for garden weddings. British and Italian makers have championed these blends for SS 25.
6. Seaside Flannel & Brushed Cottons
“Flannel” usually screams winter, but ultra‑light 7 oz flannels—sometimes labelled “rowing‑blazer cloths”—give a matte, chalky finish with unexpected breathability. Colours like sky‑blue or faded coral pair effortlessly with white jeans. Because the nap catches light, keep accessories minimal: think suede loafers and a crisp linen pocket square.
For a sportier spin, sand‑washed cotton canvas or enzyme‑washed twill brings subtle texture without visual noise, echoing chore‑coat ease in a tailored silhouette.
The Chris Kerr Cut: Details That Matter
Whatever cloth you choose, we apply house principles developed over 60 years on Berwick Street:
- Structured or soft natural shoulder.
- Hand-stitched edges.
- Buggy or unlined back – less lining equals more air.
- Hand‑sewn buttonholes – even on casual jackets, because craftsmanship isn’t seasonal.
8. How to Wear Your Summer Jacket
| Occasion | Suggested Combo | Note |
| Roof‑terrace drinks | Sage high‑twist wool jacket, white linen band‑collar shirt, dove‑grey chinos | No belt—use side‑adjusters for a cleaner waist. |
| Weekend lunch al fresco | Cream linen hopsack jacket, striped Breton tee, stone gurkha shorts | Push the sleeves up. |
| Destination wedding | Sand silk‑linen‑wool blend, pale blue poplin shirt, ivory fresco trousers, tobacco knitted tie | Pocket square in raw silk echoes tie texture. |
| Business casual heatwave | Air‑force blue seersucker jacket, ice‑blue chambray shirt, dark denim | Leave collar unbuttoned; swap tie for silk‑knit if needed. |
Care & Storage
- We always recommend professional dry cleaning or sponge and press.
- Hang summer cloths overnight; wrinkles drop out naturally.
- Rotate wardrobe: don’t wear the same item two days in a row.
Chris Kerr Bespoke: From Bolt to Beach
Our in‑house cloth library holds many summer jacketing swatches from top name cloth merchants like Holland & Sherry and Caccioppoli. A first consultation maps climate, travel schedule and existing wardrobe; pattern‑drafting follows, then two fittings refine drape and pitch.
Final Thought—Let the Cloth Talk
Summer tailoring should feel effortless: fabrics that look better a little lived‑in. Step away from the default navy cotton blazer and embrace linen rumple, seersucker pucker, or the dry crunch of fresco.
When you’re ready to commission a jacket that keeps its cool as naturally as you do, book an appointment at Chris Kerr or drop into our Soho shop to browse some summer swatches.
