The style of pocket on your suit or jacket plays a key role in determining how formal or casual you want to look.
The most informal style is the patch pocket which, as the name suggests, is a simple patch sewn onto the outside of the jacket. The most casual option, these are usually found on summer suits, for example a summer linen, blazers and sports jackets.
Very popular, and ideal as an option for all occasions, is the flap pocket, hidden beneath the surface of the jacket with a flap of fabric covering the opening. Very versatile, these can be positioned straight or slanted, which helps create the illusion of the jacket being more fitted.
Thirdly the jetted pocket is the sleekest and most formal style, with the pocket sewn into the lining and just a narrow horizontal opening visible on the outside. De rigueur for a dinner jacket, and evening wear.
Moving up the jacket, some can feature a smaller ‘ticket pocket’ placed the above the regular flap pocket. As well as being practical for commuters, these add a flourish to your suit and can be useful for keeping other small objects.
And at the top the breast pocket, on the upper left side, usually angled and, according to the style gurus, only ever used to place a handkerchief or pocket square.
When it comes to the internal pockets, the choices are endless with a bespoke garment. Most jackets would have an inside pocket on both sides, large enough to carry a wallet or card case, but we can create speciality pockets to hold a variety of items, from pens to phones and iPods. Security zips and tags can be added for those who want to carry important items safely.
Depending how you want to wear your suit, the style and the fabric you choose, come into the shop and discuss your options with us. We can help you decide on the best option.
Most bespoke tailors offer a made to measure (MTM) option but what is the actual difference between bespoke and MTM? MTM costs significantly less than full bespoke – this much is clear, but are you getting a significantly lesser quality suit if you opt for MTM? (more…)
If the single-best reason for a man to order a bespoke jacket is choice then the primary reason to have a pair of bespoke trousers tailored is fit. While, with some diligent research, a man can find ready-to-wear trousers in most fabrics he has to take what he’s given when it comes to the shape and style. This is a shame because a pair of bespoke trousers shouldn’t just be supremely comfortable, they should also do wonders for a man’s perceived height and weight. (more…)
Now we had the cloth confirmed, there’s just the small matter of trying to match the various components that make up a suit – lapels, cuff buttons, pockets, along with deciding on the cut.
While I was committed to remain faithful to the original suit as much as possible – and the jacket looks surprisingly modern for something cut 50 years ago, the high waisted, wide legged, four pleated trousers would have made the suit look a little too old fashioned for everyday wear in 2016.
Chris suggested we go for a modern interpretation of the cut, still with pleated trousers, but slightly narrower in the leg and lower waisted with a marginally more fitted jacket than the original. This will mean I can wear the suit day to day, without looking like I’m auditioning for a period drama.(more…)
Imagine your house burnt down, and that everything went in the fire (for the sake of keeping this hypothesis pure let’s say that you were out jogging at the time). Even less likely let’s imagine that the insurance company promptly sent you a cheque for £10,000 to replace your lost clothes. How would you spend the money? Where should a man start when building a wardrobe?
For men who’ve never been to a tailor the price can seem intimidating, but in reality the cost is the least interesting thing about a hand-made suit. It’s as relevant to compare the price of a suit made by Chris to the price of a designer suit as it is to compare the price of a Rolls Royce to that of a Renault Laguna; while both cars will transport you from A to B they are entirely different in every other way. A shop-bought suit (even one with the name of a famous European designer on the label) is likely to be made in a vast Chinese factory, while Chris’s suits are cut, by him, at his board in his Berwick Street shop, and sewn together in Soho.(more…)