The style of pocket on your suit or jacket plays a key role in determining how formal or casual you want to look.
The most informal style is the patch pocket which, as the name suggests, is a simple patch sewn onto the outside of the jacket. The most casual option, these are usually found on summer suits, for example a summer linen, blazers and sports jackets.
Very popular, and ideal as an option for all occasions, is the flap pocket, hidden beneath the surface of the jacket with a flap of fabric covering the opening. Very versatile, these can be positioned straight or slanted, which helps create the illusion of the jacket being more fitted.
Thirdly the jetted pocket is the sleekest and most formal style, with the pocket sewn into the lining and just a narrow horizontal opening visible on the outside. De rigueur for a dinner jacket, and evening wear.
Moving up the jacket, some can feature a smaller ‘ticket pocket’ placed the above the regular flap pocket. As well as being practical for commuters, these add a flourish to your suit and can be useful for keeping other small objects.
And at the top the breast pocket, on the upper left side, usually angled and, according to the style gurus, only ever used to place a handkerchief or pocket square.
When it comes to the internal pockets, the choices are endless with a bespoke garment. Most jackets would have an inside pocket on both sides, large enough to carry a wallet or card case, but we can create speciality pockets to hold a variety of items, from pens to phones and iPods. Security zips and tags can be added for those who want to carry important items safely.
Depending how you want to wear your suit, the style and the fabric you choose, come into the shop and discuss your options with us. We can help you decide on the best option.
The North by Northwest suit – as worn by Cary Grant in the 1959 Hitchcock movie of the same name – is probably the most iconic suit in movie history – Esquire voted it number 1 in a top 10 greatest suits poll. Readers of this blog will know that in 2016 we embarked on a mission to recreate this iconic suit – the journey described in a series of blogs. We also made an 11 minute documentary about the process which is published here for the first time. Enjoy.
It’s a fabric, not a colour pattern, made by ‘puckering’ some of the threads using a slack-tension weave to create a wrinkled effect that keeps the cloth away from the skin, giving it cooling qualities.
Where does it come from?
The name comes from a Persian origin – sheer & shakar, which means ‘milk & sugar’ and has been popular with both high society and the working class, from British colonialists and Southern US gentlemen to train engineers, butchers and cotton workers. In 1920 ‘hipster’ undergraduates at Princeton took to wearing it, lending it a Great Gatsby air – a preppy image that remains to this day.
Seersucker is hot!
In contrast to the famous cooling qualities of the cloth itself, the market for seersucker is decidedly hot at the moment. There was a noticeable upturn in demand last summer and this year a number of clothmakers have brought out their own seersucker ranges, aiming to capitalise on the popularity of this long standing summer standard.
Fit for purpose
Traditionally seersucker has been worn with a relaxed fit, especially in very warm climates. It also lends itself to a fitted look and ordering a made to measure or bespoke seersucker jacket will ensure the wearer looks sharp whilst remaining cool.
Dark or colourful?
Dark colours are popular at the moment – black and navy in particular. For a more traditional, summery seersucker look, light blue or grey is often specified, and for the more adventurous a wide range of pinks, yellows, greens and reds are available. Ask Chris about them when you’re in the shop.
“In his uniform of bespoke black suit and unbuttoned shirt, a look born from the same gothic imagination as his soul-stirring lyrics, Nick Cave is his own best advert. Ordered mostly from Chris Kerr on Berwick Street, Soho, this is a wardrobe that exceeds in nuance what it lacks in colour. The cowboy belts, forward-point collars, Chelsea boots and carefully cut flares are the work of a man, and his tailor, undictated to by trend. After all, wherever Cave goes, he leads.” Holly Bruce, Sub-Editor, GQ
Most bespoke tailors offer a made to measure (MTM) option but what is the actual difference between bespoke and MTM? MTM costs significantly less than full bespoke – this much is clear, but are you getting a significantly lesser quality suit if you opt for MTM? (more…)