It’s one of the paradoxes of modern life that even though men are freer to dress as they please than they ever have been before there remains a very stubborn wish to adhere to “the rules”. Quite what the rules are, and who came up with them, is unknown, but it remains the case that despite the evidence in front of their eyes many men believe that there is one correct way to do things when it comes to dressing up. (more…)
With spring approaching any man who wishes to wear a new light-coloured suit this summer needs to get on and place an order. The character of such suits is heavily dependent on the fabric specified, from the dry hand of linen to the fuzz of flannel and the slight sheen of cotton. The first makes sense for something like a Mediterranean wedding, where comfort takes precedence. There are few places the second makes sense because it’s so warm, but it looks amazing in an old-fashioned way, and the third makes sense in town where even pale suits need to look snappy. When choosing a colour remember that the paler the fabric the more frequently the suit will need to be dry cleaned. (more…)
Why, you might ask, would anyone wear braces in the 21st century? In an era of slim, flat-front trousers is there still a place for an item of male dress that surely reached its apogee in 1987, when the Michael Douglas film Wall Street was released?
The answer is emphatically yes, because braces are one of those rare elements of male dress that are simultaneously more stylish, and more comfortable, than the alternative. The reason that they’re more comfortable becomes increasingly apparent the higher your trousers are cut. If they sit in the proper place, which is around the waist rather than on the hips, then using a belt to support them requires a man to lash a piece of leather around his stomach. Perhaps I’m unusual, but I’ve always found this remarkably uncomfortable. I prefer trousers that are cut for braces, because there’s no need for them to be tight around the waist. This makes them a good option if you’re dressing up for a substantial meal, because of course you’ll only be able to indulge in comfort if your trousers are slightly loose around your stomach. (more…)
This show is about the revolution that took place in the way people dress during the Thirties. While it’s about the clothes worn by men and women here I’m only concerned with the men’s wear. G. Bruce Boyer, surely the English speaking world’s best style journalist, co-curated the show, which features beautiful period pieces by famous Neapolitan tailoring establishment London House (now better known as Rubinacci), H. Harris and James & James. The latter two are now defunct, but were tailors to the Duke of Windsor. (more…)
It’s a regrettable truth that if you wear a cream or white dinner jacket someone will accuse you of looking like an Italian ice cream salesman, and that a shiver of fear will run down your spine every time you see someone carrying a glass of red wine. However, if these are the costs associated with wearing one of the most elegant, and little-seen garments in the male wardrobe, then it’s a small price to pay. (more…)